In initial dog training, food is the most convenient way to reinforce our dogs’ behavior. Later, real-life rewards can be implemented: going out, being let off leash, getting dinner, greeting a person, meeting another dog, sniffing a tree, throwing a ball, etc. One Smart Puppy, Inc. uses aversive-free methods.

Dogs don’t speak English
Positive reinforcement is a way for you to communicate with your dog and let him/her know what you want and when you want it. “Traditional” methods which involve choke chains or prong collars or even electric shock collars don’t give the dog the opportunity to learn what you want him/her to do before inflicting pain upon him/her. If you “show” your dog what you want, it gives him/her the chance to get it right without being punished. This method is called “luring.” Waiting until your dog does something right on their own and rewarding that behavior is called "capturing."

Dogs do more of what works
Dog owners accidentally reinforce behaviors they don’t like in their dogs every day, in addition to ignoring good behavior. If begging at the dinner table earns food slipped under the table, your dog will try it again. If jumping at the door results in being pet, your dog will continue to practice this behavior. If your dog is lying quietly by your feet and you ignore him, he may not realize that that is a behavior you appreciate. If we teach dogs what exact behaviors lead to reinforcement, that will be the new behavior that “works” and they will continue doing it.

Training can be fun!
When you see the lightbulb go off when your dog realizes the exact behavior you’re training, it’s exhilarating! When you see him make decisions based on something you’ve taught him, you swell with pride. Sure, you can teach a dog to walk next to you because he has a choke collar on and he’ll get choked if he doesn’t walk next to you. But wouldn’t you rather have a dog who walks next to you because that’s where s/he enjoys being?

Anyone can participate in training
Positive reinforcement training doesn’t require any special patience, forceful personality or even strength. Other than praise and pets, these methods don’t require you to put your hands on the dog at all. This makes it easy for children and adults of all sizes to participate in the training of the family dog.

“Hmmmm...”
“What if my dog isn’t food motivated?”
There are a number of ways we can make him/her rely more on you as his food source. Julie can help guide you through these steps.

“I don’t want him/her to only listen to me when I have food in my hand!”
A very important part of positive reinforcement training is the fading of the lure (food). Sure, in the beginning, it will be important to keep food on-hand but it doesn’t mean you need kibble in your pockets for the rest of your dog days.

“What about when my dog does do something wrong?”
Instead of punishing the dog, an effective way to inform your dog that he’s done something wrong is to not offer the food he previously thought was coming with an “Aw, too bad.” Or, out of the context of a training session, take away whatever is valuable to him at that moment. For example, if s/he is excited to greet visitors at the front door but behaves rudely, move him/her to another room and remember that for next time, you’ll have to install some more appropriate door rituals. If the dog misbehaves when you are absent and you come upon the “crime scene” punishing the dog is an ineffective method.

To learn more about science-based learning theory like that purported by Ian Dunbar versus the undocumented and antiquated pack-theory put forth by the "Dog Whisperer," check out this article.